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Glossary

Even products that claim to be natural can often contain many synthetic or chemical substances and only a very small handful of natural ingredients. The only way to find truly natural products is to learn to read the labels and understand the ingredients list.

We use a traffic light colour coding system to show you any concerns associated with a particular ingredient.

Some of these ingredients can be animal, vegetable or petrochemical derived. If an ingredient has multiple origins, the origin is stated in brackets. Many natural brands have ingredient lists on their websites where you can find more information about the ingredients they use.

#

1,4-dioxane - Quite often referred to as just dioxane. It can sometimes contaminate body care and cosmetics products when it becomes an accidental byproduct of the ethoxylation process in cosmetics manufacturing. Ethoxylation is where ethylene oxide is added to fatty acids so they become soluble in water. Ingredients at risk from contamination include polyethylene, polyethylene glycol, PEG, and polyoxyethylene.

A

Acetic acid - An acid found in vinegar - vinegar is typically 4-6% acetic acid. It can also be found naturally in apples, oranges, pineapples, cheese and many other plants and fruits. It's uses include a PH adjuster and fragrance ingredient.

Acetone - A toxic, colourless ingredient used in nail varnishes and nail varnish removers. It can cause spitting and brittleness of the nails and if inhaled for prolonged periods, can act as a narcotic (drunken feeling).

Aluminium Chlorohydrate - Aluminium salts that are widely used in antiperspirants to create "flakes" (flocullation) which group together to form a fine structure. This structure blocks up the pores in your arm pit to prevent perspiration. Whilst this is good for keeping you dry, it also means your body is unable to sweat out toxins as it would naturally. The safety of using aluminium in deodrant has been strongly debated after aluminium was identified as a neutrotoxin.

Aluminium Silicate - Aluminium salts commonly used in deodorants for it's absorbent properties. It is used in some creams and lotions as a bulking and opacifying ingredient.

Alcohol Denat - Alcohol that has been 'denatured' has basically been made undrinkable. Alcohol Denat is created by fermenting sugars, starch and carbohydrates. It is used in a variety of products including toners, cleansers and perfumes. It has grease dissolving properties so in some cases can be drying for the skin.

Aloe Vera/Aloe perryi/aloe barbadensis - A natural substance found in the leaves of the aloe vera plant. There are 300 species of aloe vera and is used for it's skin softening and healing properties.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - Is used for similar reasons as sodium lauryl sulphate, they are both surfectants - breaks up and holds onto oils so they can be easily removed from skin and hair. Although their names sound similar, they have very different chemical structures. Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate molecules are larger and therefore do not penetrate the skin as easily as sodium lauryl sulphate. These differences in molecule size mean that ammonium laurly sulphate is considered a milder alternative to sodium lauryl sulphate.

Ascorbic acid - A naturally occuring acid found in fruit and vegetables. Ascorbic acid is also known as vitamin C.

Aspartic acid- A naturally occuring amino acid used to make the skin smooth. It can be found in sugar beet, molasses and many other plants. Although it is a naturally occuring ingredient, it can also be produced synthetically.

B

Bioaccumilative - If something is bioaccumilative, it cannot be broken down by the body and is therefore stored in fatty tissue and builds up in concentration over time.

Biodynamic - A type of organic farming that nurtures the interconnecting relationships of soil, plants and animals as an eco system. Biodynamic farming tries to create a self nourishing ecosystem using the following practices: astrological planting, crop rotation, no chemical/synthetic fertilisers or compost and maintaining the health and wellbeing of plants and animals. This technique was pioneered by Rudolf Steiner and is practiced in 500 countries worldwide.

Bentonite - A processed clay which can be found in products like foundation. This ingredient is added to foundation, face masks and lotions to absorb excess sweat and facial oil and can block pores and dry out sensitive skin.

Benzene - A solvent obtained from coal and widely used in the chemical industry (airplane glue, lacquers, varnishes and resins) but it can also be found in cigarette smoke and vehicle emissions. Benzene is used in both nail varnish and nail varnish removers - inhalation of fumes should be avoided.

Benzyl alcohol (synthetic) - Widely used as a preservative in perfumes and colognes and has a faint, sweet odour.

Benzyl alcohol (natural) - Has a faint, sweet odour and is used as a preservative. It can be derived naturally from plants including jasmine and rose

Benzoic acid (synthetic) - A weak acid used in many body care and cosmetic products as a preservative to stop mould or fungus growing after they have been opened.

Benzoic acid (natural) - Natural benzoic acid can be derived from food products such as cherries and tea. It is used as a preservative to stop mould or fungus growing after a product has been opened.

Beta Carotine - A natural antioxidant that gives plants and vegetables their yellow or orange colour. This ingredient is used to protect the skin from the effects of free radicals.

Betaine - A natural ingredient found in vegetables which is used as a natural foaming alternative to synthetic ingredients like sodium lauryl sulphate.

Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol)- This ingredient was first invented as a preservative in the 60's by Boots PLC. Since then it's use has decreased after growing concerns over the potential for nitrosamine formation. This ingredient is used as a solvent in nail varnishes and a propellant.

Butane - A highly flammable gas used in aerosol deodorants and lighter fluid as a propellant. Butane is slightly toxic if inhaled.

Butyl Acetate - A toxic solvent that is used in nail varnish, nail varnish removers and perfume. It is an irritant and can have a narcotic effect (drunken feeling) in high concentrations.

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) - A synthetic preservative which has been banned from use in food in England, Japan, Romania, Sweden and Australia. BHT can cause allergic reactions.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane - A synthetic ingredient used in suncream to absorb UVA rays.

Butyrospermum parkii - see shea butter

C

Calcium Carbonate - Quite simply: chalk. Calcium carbonate is an alkali odourless powder that can be found naturally in limestone, marble and coral. It's uses include reducing a products acidity, firming, firming and buffing.

Carrier oil - An oil base that holds essential oils in order to dilute them before they are applied to the skin. It is given this name because the oil "carries" the essnetial oils to the skin. Carrier oils have very little or no scent.

Castor oil/Palm Christi Oil- A vegetable oil that is taken from the seeds of the castor bean plant. It is used as an emollient in moisturisers and other body and cosmetic products because it is soothing for skin.

Carbamide - Also known as urea.

Carmine - A natural red dye commonly used to create red hues in lipsticks, blushers and eye shadows. This powder is made by crushing up the bodies of female cochineal beetles. These beetles can be found in Southern parts of America and feed on cacti.

Cellulose - A gum made from the fibre in the walls of plant cells. It is used as an emulsifier and to hold the ingredients together (binder).

Cetearyl alcohol/Cetyl alcohol (vegetable derived) - Is a naturally occurring fatty alcohol derived from coconut or palm oil. It is used as a thickener and carrier for other ingredients.

Ceteareth(+number e.g. Ceteareth-20) - A synthetic mixture of saturated fatty alcohols. These ingredients are used as emulsifiers in products like soaps and shampoos. This ingredient can sometimes be contaminated with harmful impurities and alters the skin in a way that enables other chemicals to penetrate more easily.

Cetyl Acetate - A natural substance that can be found in apples, oranges, pineapples etc. This ingredient is a derivative of cetyl alcohol and acetic acid.

Chloroxylenol - A chemical compound widely used for it's antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. It has an amber rating because it has been found to be bioaccumilative and resists normal chemical breakdown.

Cinnamal/Cinnamaldehyde - A yellowish, synthetic oily liquid with a strong smell of cinnamon. It occurs naturally in cinnamon bark and is used for aroma in perfumes and as flavouring in mouthwashes and toothpastes. It is a known allergen and because of this, must be listed as a separate component to fragrance in products for those who may have sensitivities to it.

Citric Acid – A natural ingredient extracted from fruit and vegetables by fermenting sugars. It is used as a PH balancer and a gentle preservative.

Citronellol - Occurs naturally in essential oils such as lemon, citronella, rose and geranium. It has a rose like smell and is used for it's strong antifungal properties. This ingredient is widely used in perfumes and insect repellents.

Cold pressed - A method of oil extraction from plants. Oil is obtained from pressing/grinding fruit and seeds causing them to release their oils. No heat is used in the process although some is generated through the friction of grinding and pressing - the temperature never rises above 50c in order to preserve the properties of the ingredients.

Cocoa Butter - A hard natural fat (yellow-white) that is made from the roasted seeds of cocoa beans. Cocoa butter softens and melts at body temperature.

Collagen - A protein usually made from the connective fibres of animal tissue and skins. Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin and therefore sit on the skins surface and block the pores. So really all it does is put a temporary coating all over the surface of your skin "fills in" the lines and wrinkles.

Colourings – Usually combinations of letters and numbers e.g. CI 15985

D

Decyl Glucoside/Lauryl glucoside - A natural, biodegradable cleanser used in many natural body care products instead of sodium lauryl sulphate. This ingredient is derived from a reaction between glucose, corn starch and a fatty alcohol from coconuts.

Diethanolamine/DEA - DEA is a colourless liquid or crystalline fatty acid derived from soy beans and coconut oil. Often used to adjust PH level and for it's emollient and foaming properties. It can also be combined with fatty acids to to convert acid to salt. DEA is a suspected carcinogen because the 'amine' (ammonium compound) part of this ingredient can form nitrosamines when it comes into contact with nitrate ingredients.

Diazolidinyl urea - An ingredient used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic. The American Academy of Dermatology has found it to be a primary cause of contact dermatitis (skin irritation). There are growing concerns that diazolidinyl urea can be contaminted with formaldehyde.

Dimethicone - A silicone derived ingredient which coats the skin with an oily later trapping in toxins and keeping oxygen out. Dimethicone is non biodegradable.

Disodium EDTA - A synthetic ingredient that is used to adjust consistency of a product. There are concerns over this being used in body care products as it can alter the skin, making it easier for other ingredients to be absorbed.

E

Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid/EDTA - A synthetic preservative used to prevent the growth of bacteria and to stop unwanted separation and reaction of ingredients. It is know to cause skin irritation and can affect cells.

Emollient - An ingredient that prevents water loss and provides a softening effect. There are natural and synthetic emollients. Natural emollients include: jojoba oil, almond oil and avacado oil. Synthetic emollients include mineral oil, petrolatum and hydrogenated oils.

Emulsifier - An ingredient added as a thickener and to help mix ingredients.

Essential oils - A natural oily liquid from plants. Many essential oils have natural antiseptic and preservation properties and are primarily used for fragrance.

F

Fatty acids - These can either be plant or animal based. Although they are non-toxic ingredients, those looking for vegan or vegetarian products should check they are not animal derived.

Formaldehyde - A cheap, toxic, colourless gas that is restricted in many countries but is still used in some products. Formaldehyde vapours are are highly irritating and should not be inhaled. It is used in cosmetics for it's preservative, disinfectant and fungicide properties. There are serious concerns about the safety of formaldehyde to human health (suspected human carcinogen) after it had been shown to cause cancer in animals.

Fragrance (chemical/synthetic) - There is no definitive list into what ingredients are classed as fragrance. The presence of the work "fragrance" could mean a mixture of up to 4,000 chemicals. These fragrances are of a low molecular density and can therefore easily penetrate the skin into the bloodstream.

Fragrance (natural) - In the vast majority of natural products, fragrance means the use of essential oils, herbs or flowers - usually stated on the label.

Fragrance free - can mean 2 things.

1. The presence of chemicals that are used to mask the smell of chemicals and preservatives.
2. The use of only natural ingredients excluding essential oils, herbs or flowers.

G

Glycerin/Glycerine - A chemical compound that helps to dissolve ingredients, but can be drying on the skin. If used it in high concentrations, it draws moisture from inside the skin and holds it on the surface for a moisturised feeling.

Glycerine, vegetable - A vegetable derived ingredient that helps to dissolve ingredients. It also acts as a moisture absorber by absorbing water from the air and is therefore very beneficial at keeping the skin hydrated and moisturised.

Gelatin - A pure animal protein created from boiling bones, cartilage, tendons and other tissue with water. It can absorb 5 times it's own weight in cold water and is therefore ideal for thickening cosmetic products and food.

Gelatine, vegetable - A vegetable based substance used as a thickener. If you are in doubt whether gelatin is of plant or animal origin, look for the presence of a vegetarian/vegan mark.

Guar gum - A natural fibre from seeds of the Guar plant in India. It is used as a thickener and emulsifier because it has 5-8 times the thickening ability of starch.

H

Hot-processed - A process developed in the 1940's by Proctor and Gamble. Hot-processing is commonly used in soap making: all the ingredients are all boiled together to form the mixture but the disadvantage to this is that the heat removes all the nutrients.

Hydrogenated/hydrogenation - A series of chemical reactions to add hydrogen to a substance. When hydrogen is added, the ingredient becomes saturated and solidifies.

I

Imidazoldinyl Urea - An ingredient used as a preservative in cosmetics. The American Academy of Dermatology has found it to be a primary cause of contact dermatitis (skin irritation). There are growing concerns that imidazoldinyl urea can be contaminated with formaldehyde.

Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol - A synthetic 'fatty alcohol' used for it's antibacterial and solvent properties. It is prepared from propylene which is created when petroleum molecules are broken down into simpler molecules - this process is also known as 'cracking'.

Isopropyl Palmitate - An ingredient which is derived from palm oil and combined with synthetic alcohol. It is used in cosmetic products as a binder and emollient.

J

Jojoba oil/Buxus Chinensis - An oil from a shrub that is found in the Sonoran and Mojave deserts in Mexico, Arizona and California. The oil is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant and is used as a carrier oil and ingredient in moisturisers.

K

Kaolin - A mineral form of white clay. In this form it can absorb high quantities of moisture, oil and impurities. These properties make it ideal for use in products like foundation as it aids covering ability.

Kaolonite - A clay mineral with a chemical composition. It is a silicate mineral which means that it composes of silicon and oxygen. This ingredient can block and clog pores.

L

Lanolin – An oily substance obtained by squeezing (usually sheep) wool between rollers. This oil is from the hair follicles and is rich in fatty acids. Lanolin can be contaminated with pesticides and insecticides unless certified organic. It is commonly used as a thickening ingredient and absorbs water and holds it on the skin, making it a good emollient.

Limonene - A hydrocarbon that has an extremely strong smell of oranges. This is the element of citrus fruits that gives them their strong smell.

Linalool/Linalol - A natural, colourless but very fragrant terpene alcohol found in some flowers and spice plants. It can be found in essential oils such as tangerine, rose, neroli, grapefruit and ylang ylang. Linalool should be avoided by people with perfume allergy as it can irritate the skin.

Liquidum Paraffinum - Another way of writing mineral oil.

M

Methylisothiazolinone - A chemical preservative usually found in many body care products that is used to prevent the growth of bacteria near water. This ingredient is commonly used in antibacterial soaps and in other body care products such as creams and hair care products.

Mineral oil - A by product from the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline. It is used in cosmetics and body care because it is inexpensive, but can be very drying for the skin. It creates an oily layer over the skin trapping in toxins and impurities and keeping oxygen out.

N

Natural - If something is natural, it means it has not undergone any chemical processing, no synthetic ingredients have been added and is made from ingredients that exist in nature.

Nitrosamines - Chemical compounds, some of which have been identified as carcinogenic. There is concern over some of the ingredients used in body care and cosmetic products because ingredients can react with each other to form nitrosamines. They can only form under certain conditions - these include strong acidity and high temperature.

O

Oleic acid - Obtained from vegetable fats and oils, usually olive and canola oils.

Organic - If a product is organic, the ingredients have been grown or prepared without the use of chemicals or pesticides. It is important to note that something 'organic' does not necessarily mean 'natural'. A product can contain only a small handful of organic ingredients combined with many chemicals and synthetic ingredients.

Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) - Derived from isopropanol. It is used as a sun screening ingredient in a wide variety of products including shampoos.

Octyl methoxycinnamate - An ingredient used to absorb UV rays. It can be found products such as sun creams, foundation and hair products.

P

Parabens - Parabens are synthetic chemical preservatives that are widely used in the skin, body care and cosmetic industry to keep things fresh and preserve shelf life. After water, parabens are the most common ingredient used in cosmetic and skincare products and can be found under many names:

• Methylparaben
• Propylparaben
• Isopropylparaben
• Butylparaben
• Isobutylparaben
• Ethylparaben

Parabens can irritate sensitive skin (including eczema) and are known as endocrine disruptor's, meaning they can manipulate estrogen levels (their chemical structure is very similar to oestrogen) in the body and because of this are suspected carcinogens.

Padimate-O - An ingredient that can be found in suncreams. It is used to absorb the UV rays but can be absorbed by the skin where the molecules can react bimolecularly with DNA and produce indirect DNA damage. Indirect DNA damage is where the energy from the UV ray cannot be converted into heat quickly enough and therefore causing damage to the cells it comes into contact with. Padimate-O is a derivative of PABA which was banned after research found it could damage cells once it had absorbed UV rays.

Palm oil - A natural oil most often found in soaps and is primarily grown in the rainforests of South East Asia. The oil is obtained from kernel or fruit of the plant and is used because it produces a natural lather. This ingredient in itself isn't toxic but more controversy is building around the cost on the environment to meet the increasing global demand for palm oil. Rainforests and forest land are being cut down in order to make room for palm oil plantations which also affects the wildlife and insects that live within it. If you do buy products that contain palm oil, try to make sure that it is cruelty free.

Parfum (natural) - Natural parfum is a mixture of aromatic ingredients like essential oils, plants and herbs and is used to add fragrance to products

Parfum (synthetic) - Also know as 'fragrance' which can be made from many synthetic chemicals.

Petroleum/Petrolatum (and mineral oils) - A yellowish white semi solid substance made of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Petroleum and other mineral oils form a oil barrier over your skin that traps in toxins and keeps oxygen out which prevents skin from breathing. These chemicals are often added to cosmetics and body care products to give the illusion of a quick result- instantly soft skin etc. These ingredients have no nutrient values for the skin.

Phthalates- These are a group of chemicals and that are used as plastisizers (softening texture). Their main use to is to turn polyvinyl chloride into flexible plastic. This chemical is also used to make fragrance last for longer in products. Phthalates are known hormone mimickers.

Polyethylene Glycols/Polyethylene/PEGS - PEGs are commonly used as synthetic emulsifiers and to combine water and oil in products. There are many different types of PEG compound. PEG ingredients are synthetic highly processed waxy substances and the higher the number, the harder in texture they are. For example, PEG-15 would be softer than PEG-200. They are problematic ingredients because the smaller the molecule size (PEG 200-400), the more likely it is that skin irritation such as eczema can occur.

Polysorbate #1-85 - A viscous oily liquid used to help disperse and stabilise oil and water solutions. It is derived from lauric acid - a fatty acid found in coconut and palm oil.

Polysorbate 60, 80 - (see above). These two types of polysorbate are rated amber because they have been associated with 1,4 dioxane contamination. Polysorbate 60 is a condensate (the liquid formed by the condensation of a vapor or gas) of sorbitol and stearic acid. Polysorbate 80 is the condensate of sorbitol and oleic acid.

Potassium Sorbate - A salt which is a natural preservative.

Propylene Glycol - A derivative of petroleum. It's main use is as a moisture carrying ingredient for products a huge range of products including liquid makeup (foundation, lipsticks etc), lotions, creams and perfumes. It's use in these types of products is gradually being reduced and is being replaced by glycols considered safer - butylene and polyethylene glycols.

Propolis - A sap/resin collected by bees from cracks in trees and pollen in flower buds. Propolis is used by the bees to seal up gaps in the hive and is used in cosmetics for it's disinfectant properties.

Purified Water - Quite simply water that has been purified to remove contaminants before it is added to products.

PVP - This ingredient is petroleum derived and mainly used in hair sprays for it's fixative properties. The particles can stick to foreign bodies in the air and transport them into the lungs if the products is inhaled.

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S

Shea Butter - A natural ingredient which comes from the pit of the fruit on Shea trees in central Africa. The pale yellowish fat is extracted by crushing and boiling the fruit. Shea Butter is an excellent base for cream, lotions and soaps because it has a high content of fatty acids, making it incredibly moisturising. Shea butter melts on contact with the skin so it is easily absorbed and non greasy leaving a protective, breathable barrier.

Silica - A mineral that is used to make products feel silky, smooth and to absorb oil and sweat (foundations, creams, deodorants etc). Silica particles are also added to nail varnish to create a smooth silky finish. The hydrated form of silica can sometimes be contaminated by crystalline quartz (a carcinogen).

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)- Can also be labelled as sodium laureth sulpahate'. SLS is a know irritant particularly to skin and eyes and is primarily used for it's foaming action. It started it's life as an industrial degreaser and cleaner and is now also widely used in our body care and cosmetics. SLS has a low molecular density and can therefore by easily absorbed into the skin. Main uses for SLS include shower gel, bubble bath, hand soap, shampoos and conditioners. When salt is added to SLS, it can give the illusion that the product is thick or concentrated. This chemical can irritate the skin and cause tightness, redness and exacerbate skin conditions such as dermatitis and eczema because it strips oils from skin and hair. It is an ingredient of no nutritional value to skin.

Sodium Benzoate - A preservative that naturally occurs in some fruits.

Sodium Chloride - Common salt. It is commonly used as an astringent and antiseptic in products like mouthwash, bubble bath and soaps.

Sodium Fluoride - Used as an anti-enzyme to prevent tooth decay. It is found in most toothpastes and in it's natural and unaltered state is a beneficial mineral. However, the type of fluoride commonly found in water and toothpastes is sodium fluoride, which is a by product of aluminium processing. Sodium Fluoride can cause nausea and vomiting if swallowed in large quantities. Canada do not permit this ingredient to be used in toothpastes, mouthwashes or breath fresheners.

Sodium Hydroxide (also known as caustic soda/soda lye) - When mixed with water, Sodium Hydroxide becomes a strong alkali. It is commonly used in toothpastes and skin creams as a PH adjuster. If too much of this is used in a product, it becomes too alkali and cause skin irritation, which is why it is rated as orange.

Steam disillation - Using steam to extract essential oils in order to preserve the active ingredients. The process involves taking the part of the plant/herb you want to extract the essence from and adding steam or water. Adding water and steam lowers the boiling point of the oil, so the oil evaporates before the water into a separate container. This vapour condenses again and you have your essential oil!

T

Triclosan - A chemical added to products to stop the growth of bacteria and microbes and is widely used in toothpastes and mouthwashes. There have been increasing health concerns after triclosan was identified as a endocrine disruptor in 2006, even in small doses. Triclosan can be stored on body fat and accumulate over time. The EPA register it as a pesticide and therefore feel it poses a risk to human health and the environment.

Tocopheryl Acetate - Tocopheryl Acetate is the chemical compound of acetic acid and tocopheryl (vitamin E). Tocopheryl acetate is sometimes used over natural vitamin E because it has a longer shelf life.

Tocopherol/Vitamin E- This type of vitamin E is easier for the skin for the skin to absorb than Tocopheryl Acetate. It is widely used as a dietary supplement to protect fat in the body's tissue.

Titanium Dioxide - A white pigment which occurs naturally in 3 crystal forms. It is a non-chemical ingredient used in sun creams for it's sun blocking properties. Titanium dioxide particles physically block out and reflect UV rays. It is a recommended natural alternative to chemical ingredients such as methyl-methoxycinnamate.

Talc - A mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate. It is used in products like talcum powder and face powder to soak up excess moisture. The main concern with talc is that it can be contaminated with asbestos. If in doubt, look for products where talc is certified as "asbestos-free" or email the company and ask for product information.

Triethanolamine/TEA - An alkali used as a detergent and dispersing ingredient in a range of products. These include skin creams, shampoos and shower gels etc. There is continuing debate about the use of "amine's" in body products because of the potential for it to react with nitrates and create nitrosamines.

U

Ultramarine (CI 77007) - A mined mineral pigment that is bright blue. It's main uses are cosmetics such as eye shadows.

Urea - Our skin naturally contains a small percentage of urea (approx 1%) which helps our skin to naturally retain moisture. Urea is excreted from the body in urine. Dry skin is often the result of low urea levels. However, if the urea content of a product is too high, it can cause skin irritation.

Organic urea

Organic urea is created from 2 organic in-organic salts: potassium cyanate and ammonium sulphate.

Synthetic urea

Although urine contains urea, urea is not urine. Industrial urea is produced synthetically from ammonia and carbon dioxide. It is used in cosmetic and body care products to keep moisture in the skin. It is also antimicrobal, so it stops the growth of bacteria and mould. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell from the label whether the urea used in natural or synthetic.

Non-synthetic urea

Non-synthetic urea is a byproduct from the livers of humans, mammals or uric acid from birds a reptiles.

V

Vegan - If a product is vegan it contains no by-products of animals including beeswax, propolis and lanolin.

Vegetarian - If a product is vegetarian it does not contain any animal based ingredients (skin, stock, gelatin, fats etc) or those that have been derived from slaughter.

Vitamin C - A water soluble vitamin that is a powerful antioxidant. Natural sources include fruit (particularly citrus fruit) and vegetables. It has a wide range of functions for the human body including fighting infections, guarding against free radicals and aiding the repair of skin cells.

W

Water - Quite simply....water. It is on of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetic and body care products. The water used in cosmetics and body care products has to be sterile to avoid contaminating the product.

X

Xanthan Gum - A natural gum derived from the fermentation of glucose or sucrose. It is used in body care and cosmetics as a thicker and emulsifier.

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Z

Zinc oxide - A natural powder made from pure zinc used in natural sun block because of it's ability to reflect UV rays.

Sources

• All colour coded classifications based on the work by the EWG
• EWG - Cosmetics Safety Database
• A Consumer Dictionary of cosmetic ingredients (6th edition). Ruth Winter, M.S.
• Cosmetics Info
• BBC Health - "Concern over Deodorant Chemicals"
• BBC News - "Palm Oil Warning for Indonesia"
• Greenpeople.co.uk - Questions
• The Ecologist - "Read the Label - Preservatives"
• The Ecologist - Behind the Label: Colgate Total
• Women's Environmental Network - Cosmetics Facts
• Women's Environmental Network - Press